Rabbits are quiet, sociable pets that live 8–12 years — and most first-time owners underestimate how much space and hay they need. Here is what actually matters.
Housing: Bigger Than You Think
- Minimum enclosure: 4 ft × 2 ft of floor space for a small breed, plus 3+ hours of daily free-roam time.
- Solid floor, never wire mesh — it causes sore hocks.
- Add a hide box, litter corner, chew toys, and a water bowl (bowls beat bottles).
- Rabbits overheat easily: keep them below 25 °C / 77 °F and out of direct sun.
Diet: Hay Is 80% of the Job
- Unlimited grass hay (timothy, orchard) — this is the single most important part of the diet; it wears down teeth and keeps the gut moving.
- Pellets: about 1/4 cup per 2 kg of body weight per day, plain (no colorful muesli mixes).
- Greens: 1 packed cup per 2 kg daily — romaine, cilantro, parsley. Avoid iceberg lettuce.
- Treats: tiny fruit pieces only (apple, banana), max 1–2 tsp per day.
- Never feed chocolate, avocado, onion, or iceberg lettuce.
Litter Training
Rabbits litter-train surprisingly easily. Put a litter box (with paper pellets or wood stove pellets — never cat litter) in the corner they already choose, and put hay right next to it. They like to eat while they toilet, so this pairs naturally. Neuter/spay helps enormously with spraying and territorial droppings.
Health Watch List
- GI stasis — the #1 emergency: not eating, no droppings, hunched posture. Go to an exotics vet immediately.
- Teeth — overgrown molars cause drooling and weight loss; hay prevents it.
- Nails — trim every 6–8 weeks.
- Annual checkup with an exotics-qualified vet.
Bonding and Enrichment
Rabbits are social and usually do better in bonded pairs. Give them tunnels, cardboard boxes to destroy, and daily interaction. A bored rabbit becomes a destructive rabbit.