Ear mites are one of the most common parasitic problems in pet rabbits, and they can look alarming. The culprit is Psoroptes cuniculi, a tiny mite that lives on the skin inside the ear canal. As the infestation grows, the ear fills with thick, tan-to-brown crusts that resemble a walnut shell — a condition old-timers call ear canker. The mites are highly contagious between rabbits, spread through direct contact and contaminated housing, and can occasionally spread to the fur around the bottom during grooming. A rabbit from a pet shop, rescue, or multi-rabbit home may already carry mites without visible signs, because symptoms build up over weeks.
Symptoms
- Frequent head shaking and scratching at the ears with the front paws
- Thick, crusty, scab-like debris filling one or both ear canals
- Red, inflamed, or ulcerated ear skin; a foul smell in heavy cases
- Drooping or painful ears, and flinching when the head is touched
- Crusty lesions spreading to the face or the rump in advanced cases
- Restlessness, poor appetite, or weight loss when pain becomes constant
Some rabbits tolerate light infestations with few signs; others scratch until the skin bleeds. Secondary bacterial infection can follow constant scratching.
When to See a Vet
See a rabbit-savvy veterinarian as soon as you notice crusting or persistent scratching. Confirmation is usually made by examining the debris under a microscope. Do not delay if your rabbit stops eating, produces fewer droppings, or seems lethargic — in rabbits, gut stasis is an emergency, and pain from the ears can trigger it.
Common Vet-Directed Treatments
Never pick or scrape the crusts out yourself: the skin underneath is ulcerated and painful, and forcing crusts off causes real distress. Veterinarians treat ear mites with prescription parasiticides — most commonly ivermectin given by injection or orally in repeated doses two to three weeks apart, or selamectin/moxidectin spot-on products applied to the skin. Some clinics also recommend mineral-oil-based drops to soften crusts and suffocate mites, which works best alongside prescription medicine. Treatment must cover all rabbits in the household, because untreated companions simply reinfect the others.
The following video demonstrates gentle crust softening and cleaning technique:
Home Care During Treatment
- Let softened crusts fall out on their own; wipe loose debris gently with cotton wool only once your vet says the ears are comfortable enough
- Clean and disinfect the cage, litter tray, and bowls while treatment runs — mites can survive off the rabbit for a short time
- Treat every rabbit in the home at the same time, even those without visible crusts
- Reduce stress and keep hay and water intake high, since pain and poor appetite are the biggest dangers during recovery
Prevention
Quarantine any new rabbit for several weeks and check the ears before introducing it to your group. Do routine monthly ear checks — healthy rabbit ears are clean and pale pink inside. Keep housing dry, clean, and uncrowded, since mites thrive in dirty or stressed colonies. Rabbits that have had mites once can be reinfected, so stay alert for early head shaking, which is far easier to treat than a full ear of crusts.
Disclaimer: This article is for educational content only and is not a substitute for professional veterinary advice. Always consult a licensed veterinarian about your pet’s health.